Army Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. (1987), “A Numerical Model for Shoaling and Refraction of Second Order Cnoidal Waves Over an Irregular Bottom,” Miscellaneous Paper CERC 87–9, U.S. (1963), “Numerical Calculation of Wave Refraction,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. (1985), Random Seas and the Design of Maritime Structures, University of Tokyo Press, Tokyo. (1985), “Refraction-Diffraction Model for Linear Water Waves,” Journal, Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, November, pp. (1984), Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, Prentic-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.Įbersole, B.A. (1982), “Computer Model for the Refraction of Nonlinear Waves,” in Proceedings, 18th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Cape Town, pp. Army Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS.Ĭrowley, J.B., Fleming, C.A., and Cooper, C.K. (1987), “A Numerical Model for Shoaling and Refraction of Third-Order Stokes Waves Over an Irregular Bottom,” Miscellaneous Paper CERC 87–10, U.S. (1952), “Diffraction of Water Waves by Breakwaters,” Gravity Waves, Circular 521, National Bureau of Standards, Washington, DC, pp. (1949), “Diffraction of Water Waves Passing Through a Breakwater Gap,” Transactions, American Geophysical Union, Vol. (1982), “Verification of Numerical Wave Propagation Models for Simple Harmonic Linear Water Waves,” Coastal Engineering, Vol. (1972), “Computation of Combined Refraction-Diffraction,” in Proceedings, 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vancouver, pp. (1952), “The Direct Construction of Wave Rays,” Transactions, American Geophysical Union, Vol. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.Īrthur, R.S., Munk, W.H., and Isaacs, J.D. These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. ![]() If any of the interior borders of the marina (e.g., vertical bulkheads and quay walls) have a high reflection coefficient, reflected waves may also be active at the points of interest. The combined effects of shoaling, refraction, and diffraction will yield the resulting wave height and direction of propagation pattern within the marina. Then the effects of diffraction and possibly further refraction as the wave propagates into the lee of the marina breakwater must be evaluated. We must also evaluate the effects of refraction on wave height and crest orientation as the wave propagates over the nearshore bottom contours from deep water to the vicinity of the marina. There must be an analysis of the change in wave height owing to the change in relative depth from deep water to the marina interior (as discussed in Chapters 2 and 3). A typical design concern would be to predict wave conditions at interior points in the marina (where vessels will be moored) for a given deep water design wave height, period, and direction. A light ray speeds up as it passes from glass into air, and bends away from the normal by the same angle.Consider the design of a protective breakwater for a small marina that is located on the open coast. If the ray meets the boundary at an angle to the normal, it bends towards the normal. Glass is denser than air, so a light ray passing from air into glass slows down. In general, the denser the transparent material, the more slowly light travels through it. The density of a material affects the speed that a wave will be transmitted through it. The waves slow down as they enter the shallow water which causes the wavelengths to shorten. Water waves will change direction at a boundary between deep and shallow water. ![]() ![]() Refraction can cause optical illusions as the light waves appear to come from a different position to A ray diagram showing refraction of light at the boundary between air and glass It is important to be able to draw ray diagrams to show the refraction of a wave at a boundary. Refraction is the change in direction of a wave at such a boundary. Light waves may change direction at the boundary between two transparent materials. Different materials have different densities.
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